The night of October 12, my first night in Yading (Daocheng Yading), was dark and rainy. I sat in the quiet, dimly lit room of a temple-turned-inn, trying to connect to the internet, but to no avail. Despite being connected to the wifi, I was unable to access anything online. Frustrating, yes—but it became an opportunity for something rare: a night completely disconnected from the digital world, my first in ten days.
In the solitude of my rickety room inside a Buddhist hall, I was left alone with my thoughts. Sometimes, solitude has its own rewards. It gives you the space to think deeply, to reflect, and perhaps even find moments of clarity. Tonight, my mind wandered to thoughts of Shangri-La—the mythical place made famous by James Hilton’s 1933 novel, Lost Horizon. Where could it be? Was Yading the real Shangri-La?
There are multiple places in China that claim to be Shangri-La: Zhongdian (now officially renamed Shangri-La), Deqin, and even Yading. But what did the real Shangri-La look like? Was it merely the product of Hilton’s imagination?
My mind drifted to another person—Joseph Rock, the Austrian-American explorer and botanist. Rock’s work in the early 20th century, documenting his time in China for National Geographic, had a significant influence on Hilton’s novel. In 1928, Rock visited Yading and described his first view of Mt. Jambeyang (央迈勇) as “the finest mountain my eyes ever beheld.”
Was Yading the real Shangri-La? The questions kept swirling as I lay there, without the distraction of wifi, enveloped in a kind of peaceful trance.
As I gazed out at the snow-capped peaks of Mt. Chenrezig ( 仙乃日), Mt. Jambeyang, and Mt. Chana Dorje (夏洛多吉), I felt connected to something far beyond the earthly realm. These mountains, revered by locals for centuries, seemed to whisper something timeless and sacred. I began to imagine the idyllic scenes of glacier-fed lakes, crystal-clear brooks, and expansive meadows—a kind of divine beauty untouched by modern life. In this space, you don’t need to wear a pollution mask or worry about smog. Everything was serene.
I fell asleep that night, hoping for a snow-free, rain-free day ahead.
A New Day in Yading
I was awoken early the next morning by my travel fellow – Mr. Chen’s enthusiastic knocks on the door. He had stayed in the room opposite mine the night before. Without waiting for me to answer, he called out, “It’s going to be a beautiful day today! I saw the stars last night!” Despite his optimism, the weather in these alpine areas can change in an instant.
After a quick breakfast, we grabbed our backpacks and headed to the shuttle bus station at Longtong Ba (3700m), about a 20-minute walk from the inn. The bus arrived shortly, and we hopped on with only three seats left. The shuttle would take us to Zhaguanbeng Station (扎灌崩车站), the main entrance to Yading Nature Reserve, located at 3900m above sea level. From there, we had to walk another 500 meters up to the entrance, passing by stunning views that stopped us in our tracks.
The morning sun bathed Mt. Chenrezig, the highest of the three sacred peaks, in golden light. It felt as though the mountain was calling us, inviting us to explore its secrets. The beauty around us was overwhelming. The Yading valley, nestled between snow-capped mountains, was nothing short of a sacred sanctuary.
The Journey to Luorong Grassland
After reaching the entrance, we had two options: hike the 6.7 km to Luorong Grassland (洛绒牛场 4180m) or take an electric cart. We opted for the cart, which sped along the winding mountain roads, giving us a chance to admire the scenery.
The landscape was almost otherworldly, with alpine meadows and the Gongga River flowing past, adding to the tranquil atmosphere.
At Luorong Grassland, we decided to continue our adventure by hiking to Milk Lake (牛奶海 4600m), a 5-6 hour trek, with a breathtaking view of Mt. Jambeyang looming overhead. The mountain’s rugged beauty was truly awe-inspiring, and the scenery only grew more magnificent as we ascended.
The Hike to Milk Lake
The trail to Milk Lake was challenging, mostly due to the unpaved, rocky path. The high altitude made the climb strenuous, but the sight of Mt. Jambeyang, piercing the sky like a towering sword, kept me moving forward. As we hiked, the landscape shifted dramatically—from vast meadows to rocky slopes and icy peaks.
We passed a group of mule riders along the way. The path was steep, and at times we had to scramble up loose rocks. Despite the difficulty, the views were worth every step. With each turn, we were greeted by expansive views of the rugged mountains and alpine meadows. It felt like we were in the Alps, surrounded by natural beauty that could only be found in the most remote corners of the world.
Reaching Milk Lake
Finally, we reached Milk Lake. The sight of the dark blue water surrounded by white snow and rocky mountains took my breath away. It’s said that in summer, the lake sparkles with multiple colors, earning it the nickname “Seven-Colored Lake.” But today, the lake’s stillness and cool beauty felt just as perfect.
We sat by the lake, savoring some snacks—biscuits, chocolate, and dried beef—and marveled at the serenity around us. After a brief rest, we made the decision to forgo the additional hour-long hike to Five-Color Lake, knowing that the weather in this high-altitude region can change at any moment. We needed to descend back to Luorong Grassland before dark.
The Descent and the Return
The descent was much easier than the ascent, and we returned to Luorong Grassland in just two hours. The landscape, bathed in a bit of sunshine, revealed vibrant meadows and forests that had been hidden by frost earlier. We had a chance to truly appreciate the stunning beauty of the valley before heading back to the Chonggu Si entrance (冲古寺大门).
On our way back, we decided to walk the 1.5 km path to Pearl Lake. Though tired from the day’s hike, the walk gave us another opportunity to enjoy the breathtaking views of Mt. Chenrezig, now shrouded in mist and reflecting beautifully in the lake. It was the perfect ending to a day full of unforgettable experiences.
As we boarded the shuttle bus back to Shangri-La Town, the setting sun painted the peaks of Mt. Chenrezig and Mt. Chana Dorje in golden hues. The day had come to an end, but the memories of this sacred, serene place would stay with us forever.
Yading truly lives up to its reputation as a place of peace and tranquility. For those seeking inner peace amidst nature’s grandeur, there is no better destination.
