Welcome to Hangzhou, often called “Heaven on Earth.” Beyond the charm of West Lake lies a hidden treasure—Feilai Feng Grottoes. Carved into limestone cliffs for over a thousand years, these grottoes bring Buddhist legends to life through hundreds of intricate stone carvings. Walking here feels like stepping into a living museum beneath leafy trees and beside the cool creek.
Right across the creek sits Lingyin Temple, making both sites a perfect half-day journey. In this Feilai Feng Grottoes Travel Guide, I’ll share how I explored this timeless wonder.
1. Feilai Feng Grottoes: History and Legends
You may haveh heard of China’s famous grottoes—Mogao in Dunhuang, Yungang in Datong, Longmen in Luoyang. Most of them faded after the Tang Dynasty ( 618 – 907). However, the Feilai Feng Grottoes in Hangzhou tell a different story. They flourished much later, from the 10th to the 14th century, and became the most important grotto cluster in southern China.
Yet, only twice did the grottoes receive large-scale support from the state.
The first wave came during the Five Dynasties (907-960) and Song Dynasty ( 960 to 1279). With the resources of the Wuyue Kingdom ( 907–978), artisans carved statues on the summit of Feilai Peak and around the roof of Qinglin Cave. Most were created during the Song Dynasty.
The second wave happened much later, in the Yuan Dynasty (1271 – 1368). At that time, a high-ranking Buddhist official named Yang Lianzhenjia (江南释教总督杨琏真迦) oversaw the work. Many of these carvings still cluster around Longhong Cave, Lengquan Stream, and the southern bank.
These sites together form the largest group of Tibetan-style Buddhist carvings in inland China.
The name Feilai Peak means “the peak that flew from afar.” Legend says this limestone mountain traveled all the way from India, carrying Buddhist blessings with it. Standing by its craggy cliffs, I could almost believe the tale. The peak rises about 209 meters, dotted with caves and carvings. More than 300 statues remain, each telling a story of devotion.
Next, as I wandered along the stream that separates the peak from Lingyin Temple, I noticed figures peeking out from the mossy rock. Buddhas, bodhisattvas, arhats, and heavenly kings looked down on me. Some faces were delicate and graceful, reflecting Han traditions. Others were bold and powerful, echoing Tibetan influence. Together, they revealed the cultural exchange between India and China during those centuries.
That’s the story behind the mountain itself. Next, let’s step closer and explore the grottoes one by one, uncovering their secrets along the path.
2. How to Get to Feilai Feng Grottoes
Planning your trip always begins with one question: how to get to Feilai Feng Grottoes. Luckily, the journey is simple and stress-free. The grottoes sit inside the Feilai Peak Scenic Area, right next to Lingyin Temple. The exact address is No. 1 Fayun Lane, Lingyin Road, Hangzhou. Once you arrive at Lingyin Temple, you’re already at the entrance to the grottoes.
First, from downtown Hangzhou, you can take one of three special shuttle buses. These lines run directly to Lingyin Temple without extra stops. If you prefer regular buses, both Bus 7 and Bus 7W also go there.
Next, let’s look at the easiest starting points:
- Longxiangqiao Metro Station (Line 1, Exit A) 龙翔桥地铁站地铁1号线A出口: Walk straight, turn right, and you’ll see the Longxiangqiao bus stop. From here, take the “Longxiangqiao–Lingyin” express shuttle. Tickets cost 5 RMB. In summer (from April 15), buses run 7:30–16:00 on weekdays and 7:00–16:00 on weekends and holidays. In winter (from September 18), times shift slightly later.
- Wulin Square Metro Station (Line 1 or 3, Exit E) 武林广场地铁站地铁1号线、3号线E出口 : Cross the road to Wulin Square bus stop. Board the “Wulin–Lingyin” shuttle. Operating hours are 8:30–15:30 on weekdays, and 8:00–15:30 on weekends and holidays.
- Huanglong Sports Center Metro Station (Line 3 or 10, Exit B) 黄龙体育中心地铁站地铁3号线、10号线B出口: The stop is right outside the station on the right. Take the “Huanglong–Lingyin” shuttle, running daily 8:30–15:30.
Finally, if you enjoy a more local experience, hop on buses 7 or 7W. They take a little longer but give you a glimpse of city life on the way.
3. Feilai Feng Grottoes Walking Route and Grottoes Exploration
When I visited, I followed a classic clockwise path. This Feilai Feng Grottoes Walking Route starts at the Lingyin Temple gate. Instead of walking straight, I turned left toward Qinglin Cave. Next came Yuru Cave, Ligong Pagoda, and Longhong Cave. Soon, the Song Dynasty carvings appeared—plump Maitreya, the guardian kings, and the mysterious Vajrayogini. Finally, I rested at Lengquan Creek, Lengquan Temple, and Cuiwei Pavilion. From there, Lingyin Temple was just across the stream. The route is about two kilometers, gentle and easy. In this Feilai Feng Grottoes Walking Guide, I’ll share every stop in detail.
1) Qinglin Cave – First Stop on the Feilai Feng Grottoes Walking Route
My journey along the Feilai Feng Grottoes Walking Route began at Qinglin Cave (青林洞). Locals also call it Tiger Cave because the south entrance looks like a tiger’s mouth.
Standing before the opening, I felt both awe and curiosity. This was the largest cave on the mountain’s southeast side, and it seemed to guard countless stories inside.
First, above the cave entrance, I noticed the Three Saints of Huayan (华严三圣). At the center stood Vairocana Buddha (毗卢遮那佛), flanked by Manjushri (文殊菩萨) and Samantabhadra (普贤菩萨). Carved in 1282, these figures are among the earliest Yuan dynasty works here. Their presence felt timeless, as if they had been waiting centuries for new travelers.
Next, my eyes were drawn downward to a smooth rock bed. This was the legendary Ji Gong’s Bed (济公床). The stone was so polished it shone like glass.
Above it, eighteen arhats stood in lively poses, each with a distinct personality. Legend says Ji Gong, the free-spirited monk of Lingyin Temple, once slept here when the temple gates closed at night. Imagining him resting under the stars made the place feel suddenly alive.
Meanwhile, on the right side of the cave entrance, I discovered the Three Saints of the West (西方三圣). These statues—Amitabha(阿弥陀佛), Avalokitesvara (观音菩萨), and Mahasthamaprapta (大势至菩萨)—date back to 951. They are the earliest known carvings at Feilai Feng, more than a thousand years old.
Finally, across from the stone bed, I admired the Locana Buddhist Ceremony Relief (卢舍那佛会浮雕). Carved in 1022, it showed rows of figures gathering in devotion. The detail was breathtaking, every fold of the robes carved with care, the stone carving in Feilai Feng Grottoes.
Visiting Qinglin Cave was like stepping into a living chronicle. It set the tone for everything that followed in the Feilai Feng Grottoes.
2) Yuru Cave – The Cave of Arhats
Leaving Qinglin Cave behind, I continued my walk through Fei Lai Feng and moved to the next cave – Yuru Cave (玉乳洞). Locals also call it the Cave of Bats or the Cave of Arhats. The name “Yuru,” or “Jade Milk,” comes from the pale drips of limestone that fall from the ceiling like frozen drops of milk. Stepping inside, I felt the air grow cooler, and the space suddenly hushed.
First, I noticed the carvings of the Eighteen Arhats (十八罗汉), created during the Northern Song Dynasty in 1026. Each arhat seemed alive—some sat in meditation, while others looked ready to rise and walk out of the rock. Their expressions were so varied that I couldn’t stop circling around them, searching for my favorite.
Next, carved nearby, stood the figures of the Six Patriarchs of Chan Buddhism (禅宗六祖像). Bodhidharma, the First Patriarch, looked solemn and fierce. Hui Neng, the Sixth, appeared serene, almost smiling. Together, the six felt like spiritual guardians, reminding visitors of the deep Buddhist traditions that shaped the Feilai Peak Grottoes.
In addition, niches at the eastern entrance held 39 more statues, including a striking God of Thunder (雷公). The details amazed me—Tiger Face with human body – the sense of power.
Exploring Yuru Cave felt mystical, like stepping into a secret temple hidden inside the mountain.
3) Ligong Pagoda – A Tribute to the Founder
Continuing along the Feilai Feng Grottoes, I soon reached Ligong Pagoda (理公之塔). This stone tower stands quietly near Longhong Cave, yet it feels impossible to miss. The pagoda honors Master Huili (开山祖师慧理和尚), the Indian monk who founded Lingyin Temple in the Eastern Jin Dynasty (266–420).
First, I admired its structure. The pagoda is hexagonal, with seven tiers that narrow gracefully toward the top. Each level carries subtle carvings. The second tier preserves an ancient inscription, while the third displays verses from the Diamond Sutra. Higher up, Buddhas emerge from the stone, watching over visitors with calm expressions.
Next, I noticed the atmosphere. Unlike the colorful temples nearby, this pagoda carries no bright paint or gilded detail. Instead, it radiates simplicity. The gray stone, weathered by centuries, gives it a solemn dignity. I could almost sense the prayers whispered here through time.
In addition, beside the pagoda stands a small shrine with the Yellow Wealth God, a Yuan Dynasty carving. He wears a jeweled crown, his eyes wide like bronze bells, and one foot firmly presses a seashell. Believers say he is the chief among the Five Wealth Gods, able to bless people with prosperity. His stone feet gleamed, polished smooth by countless hands over the centuries. Touching them reflects not only the hope for wealth but also the universal longing for security and fortune.
Although the original pagoda dates back to 328, the structure I saw was rebuilt in 1590. It remains the only Ming-era stone pagoda in Hangzhou, a rare survivor of history.
Standing here, I felt deeply connected to the origins of Buddhism at Feilai Peak.
4) Longhong Cave – The Cave Leading to the Sky
Walking deeper into the Feilai Feng Grottoes, I arrived at Longhong Cave (龙泓洞). Locals also call it Tong Tian Dong, “the Cave Leading to the Sky,” or Guanyin Cave. The name alone stirred my imagination. As I stepped closer, the entrance seemed like a portal into another world.
First, inside the cave, I found two statues of Guanyin. One was delicately carved by hand, the folds of her robes flowing as if moved by the wind. The other stood nearby, simpler but full of quiet grace. Together, they created a space filled with calm devotion.
Next, I turned to the carvings outside the cave. Here, stone panels told incredible stories of monks journeying to bring back sacred scriptures.
The first scene showed Emperor Ming of Han sending white horses (汉明帝刘庄的白马驮经) to carry sutras from the West. The second depicted Zhu Shixing (魏国高僧朱士行) of the Wei Kingdom braving desert sands to reach Khotan. Finally, the familiar tale of Tang monk Xuanzang (唐三藏) appeared, setting off for India in search of wisdom.
In addition, Longhong Cave holds 43 statues and 27 niches, many carved during the Yuan Dynasty. Compared with earlier Song works, these carvings feel bolder and more dramatic.
Standing at this cave, I felt how the Feilai Peak Caves preserved not just art, but the enduring spirit of pilgrimage.
5) Lengquan Stream and Cliffside Carvings
After Longhong Cave, the path led me north toward Lengquan Stream. On one side rose the cliffs of the Feilai Peak Caves, while across the water stood Lingyin Temple. The setting felt poetic, and I remembered Bai Juyi’s words praising this very pavilion.
Along the cliffs, 37 niches hold 72 Yuan Dynasty statues. Next, as I walked beside the rushing water, the stone figures seemed alive, watching over the stream. The Feilai Feng Grottoes truly merged nature and art here.
5-1) The Laughing Buddha and Eighteen Arhats
Of the Feilai Feng Grottoes along the Lengquan Stream, nothing struck me more than the great Laughing Buddha (南宋布袋和尚). This Southern Song carving is the largest statue at Feilai Peak, even chosen for the ticket design. The Buddha sits cross-legged, beads in hand, chest bare, and belly round.
His laughter feels contagious, radiating wisdom and joy. Around him, eighteen arhats stand in vivid detail—some stern, some gentle, some lost in thought. Together, they form a masterpiece that turns stone into living spirit, a true treasure of the Feilai Feng Grottoes.
5-2) The Umbrella Heaven King
Crossing a small stone bridge along Lengquan Stream, I reached one of the most striking figures in the Feilai Feng Grottoes—the Umbrella Heaven King. Carved during the Yuan Dynasty, this guardian stands nearly two meters tall inside a lofty niche.
He wears a jeweled crown and heavy armor, holding a treasure staff in one hand and a jewel-spitting mouse in the other. His mount, a fierce white lion, crouches beneath him. The blend of Han and Tibetan styles gave him both elegance and raw power, embodying wealth and protection.
5-3）Ushnishavijaya – The Goddess of Victory
Among the Feilai Feng Grottoes, one of the most striking Yuan Dynasty carvings is Ushnishavijaya (尊胜佛母像). Created around 1282, she reflects the strong Tibetan influence brought by Lama master Yang Lianzhenjia (杨琏真迦).
I stopped before her niche, fascinated by her form—three faces, eight arms, each holding sacred objects like a vase and an arrow. She sits serenely on a lotus throne, crowned and robed with elegance. In Tibetan Buddhism, she embodies compassion and longevity, a protector of life itself. Here, at Feilai Peak, faith and artistry merge in stone.
5-4) Lengquan Pavilion
After exploring the main carvings of the Feilai Feng Grottoes, I paused at Lengquan Pavilion (冷泉亭) by the side the Lengquan Stream. Across the road stood the gate of Lingyin Temple. The pavilion first rose here in the Tang Dynasty, later rebuilt after floods. Its double eaves, dark tiles, and red pillars looked timeless under the shade of ancient trees. Clear spring water flowed nearby, cool even in midsummer.
Bai Juyi (白居易) once inscribed “Lengquan” (Literally means “Cool Spring” ) here, and Su Shi (苏轼) later added the word “Pavilion.” Together, their calligraphy still crowns the entrance, echoing centuries of West Lake culture.
5-5) Cuiwei Pavilion
From Lengquan Pavilion, I walked uphill toward Cuiwei Pavilion (翠微亭) on the slope of Feilai Peak. This small pavilion, facing Lengquan across the stream, was first built in the Song Dynasty. General Han Shizhong (韩世忠) created it to honor his fallen comrade Yue Fei. Its name comes from Yue Fei’s verse, “Climb Cuiwei Pavilion in Chizhou,” meaning there is never enough beauty to admire.
The structure has double eaves and stone benches inside. From here, I looked down over the stream and the Peak Flown From Afar, the view calm and poetic. Inscriptions of Yue Fei’s poem remain on the beams. After resting, I returned to Lengquan Pavilion, then stepped toward Lingyin Temple, ending my walk through Feilai Feng.
6. Tips for Foreign Visitors to Feilai Feng
Before ending my walk, I want to share some practical advice for fellow travelers. Visiting along the Feilai Feng Grottoes Walking Route is magical, but a little preparation makes it smoother.
First, tickets. You can buy tickets on-site or online through Alipay or WeChat saves long waits. Entry is about 45 RMB, with Lingyin Temple requiring a separate ticket. Opening hours run 7:30 to 17:30. I found early mornings or late afternoons best to avoid the crowds.
Next, clothing. Since Feilai Peak is a sacred site, modest dress feels respectful. I wore long sleeves and avoided shorts. Comfortable shoes are essential—the stone steps can be damp and slippery.
Meanwhile, remember respect. The carvings are precious relics. Don’t touch them, except the Laughing Buddha’s belly where gentle touches are allowed. Keep voices low, and never leave trash behind. Silence carries its own beauty here.
Safety also matters. Bring mosquito repellent in summer, carry water, and wear a hat. Rain makes the stone paths slick, so tread carefully. Follow the signs and don’t wander off alone.
In addition, language can be a hurdle. Some signs are in English, but I still recommend a translation app or renting the audio guide. Locals are friendly and often answer simple English questions with a smile.
Finally, take time to pair your grotto walk with Lingyin Temple. The two together tell a fuller story. Treat yourself afterward with vegetarian snacks or a cup of Longjing tea nearby. And yes—bring a camera. Every corner here is picture-perfect.
I hope this Feilai Feng Grottoes Travel Guide helps you plan a trip filled with wonder. Hangzhou truly welcomes you with open arms. May your own walk among the grottoes be as inspiring as mine, full of quiet surprises and timeless beauty. And if you ever feel lost, just ask a local—their warm smiles are the best guide of all.
🌟Further Reading
Hangzhou Travel Guide: Map, Highlights, Food, Transport & Tips
How to Book Hangzhou Attraction Tickets: All You Need to Know
West Lake, Hangzhou: Walking Route, Map & Must-See Highlights
Feilai Feng Grottoes: Map, Walking Route & Highlights
Baoshi Mountain: Hiking Route, Map & Must-See Highlights
Xiling Seal Art Society: Map, Walking Route & Highlights
Hupao Spring: Walking Route, Map & Must-See Highlights
Liuhe Pagoda: Map, Walking Route and Highlights
How to Visit Hangzhou – Your Complete Guide
The Best Hangzhou Tour Itinerary
Best Places to See Fall Colors in Hangzhou
