Tucked away in the poetic highlands of Gansu, Xiahe County (夏河县) is the spiritual heart of the Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (甘南藏族自治州)—and a place that truly feels worlds away.
Once named a “must-visit hidden gem” by National Geographic China, Gannan is where blue skies stretch endlessly above rolling mountains, crystal-clear lakes shimmer under the sun, and vast grasslands invite you to breathe deeply and simply be.
And at the center of it all? Xiahe. A peaceful yet powerful gateway to Tibetan culture, sacred sites, and wild natural beauty.
Come walk with me through this Xiahe travel guide as we explore the wonders of Xiahe County together.
1. Scenic Drive from Lanzhou to Xiahe County (256 km)
On a quiet July afternoon, we hit the road from Lanzhou around 2:30 p.m. Our destination? Xiahe County, deep in the southern heart of Gansu. With three of us packed into a rented SUV, we were set for a scenic road trip through Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.
Gannan (甘南) literally means “the south of Gansu.” It’s where the Tibetan Plateau begins to rise, and where cultures shift before your eyes. While our main goal was to visit the famous Labrang Monastery (拉卜楞寺), the journey itself became just as memorable.
First, we cruised along the Lanzhou–Linxia expressway, passing Hezheng County (和政县) before reaching Linxia City (临夏市)—about 140 kilometers from Lanzhou.
We made a short stop in Hezheng to visit the Hezheng Museum of Paleontological Fossils. The museum houses an impressive collection of prehistoric animal fossils, including giant rhinoceroses, platybelodon (the “shovel-tusked” elephants), early horse species (equus), and more. It also offers educational exhibits and activities that bring ancient life to the modern visitor.
Linxia City is the capital of the Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture and a fascinating place in its own right. “Linxia” means “in front of the Daxia River,” and sure enough, the golden Daxia River winds right through it.
This region, sitting between the Loess Plateau and the Tibetan Plateau, is home to 22 ethnic groups, including Hui, Dongxiang, Bonan, Tibetan, and Han. More than half the population belongs to minority groups, and it shows in the mosques, food, and vibrant street life.
We stopped in Linxia for a break—crossed the river by bridge and stretched our legs in town. For many travelers, Linxia is just a stopover, but it’s worth visiting the Linxia Nanguan Mosque or, if you have time, detouring to the Bingling Grottoes (炳灵寺) nearby. These ancient Buddhist caves, carved into red cliffs, are a masterpiece of Tibetan and Chinese fusion.
Back on the road, we noticed more and more mosques scattered across the loess hills. Then slowly, the landscape began to change. The air felt cooler. Prayer flags appeared along the roadside. We were entering Tibetan country.
By late afternoon, we finally rolled into Labrang Town (拉卜楞镇), the cultural heart of Xiahe County. We had officially arrived—at the meeting point of two worlds.
2. Getting to Know Xiahe County: Town Layout & Grassland Evenings
Xiahe County, in southwestern Gansu, feels like a place gently tucked between heaven and earth. The main town here is Labrang Town (Labulengzhen 拉卜楞镇), often just called “Xiahe” (夏河) by locals and travelers alike.
Xiahe County sits inside the Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture and is home to 18 ethnic groups. Most people here are Tibetan—about 81% of the population of 85,000. You’ll also find Han, Hui, Dongxiang, Salar, and Mongolian communities. The blend of cultures gives Xiahe its deep spiritual energy and warm hospitality.
Early the next morning, I went for a walk to get a feel for the town’s layout. Xiahe town (Labulengzhen) stretches between two mountain ridges, with the Daxia River flowing gently from west to east through its heart. This river is where the county gets its name—“Xiahe” literally means “Xia River.”
The town itself is simple and easy to navigate. It’s roughly divided into three sections. The east side is mainly Han-inhabited, where you’ll find the most shops, hotels, and government buildings. Our hotel, the Labuleng Civil Aviation Hotel, was right next to the county offices.
The center of town is home to the Labrang Monastery, while the west side is mainly Tibetan residential areas. Two parallel roads—People’s Road (north of the river) and Sangqu Nublam Road (to the south)—form the main arteries of downtown Xiahe. A single bridge, Rigzha Ram, connects the two sides across the Daxia River.
That evening, after dinner, we visited Sangke Grasslands (桑科草原)—just 14 km southwest of town. The air felt cooler, and yaks grazed in the distance. We missed the daytime horse rides, but the sunset painted the grasslands gold. Locals invited us to a small bonfire. It was the perfect end to a peaceful day in Xiahe County.
3. Walking Through Spirit and Silence: Visiting Labrang Monastery in Xiahe
If you ask me, no Xiahe travel guide is complete without a visit to Labrang Monastery. Nestled on the northern bank of the Daxia River, in the western part of Xiahe County, this is the spiritual heart of the region—and one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist monasteries outside Tibet itself.
Founded in 1709 by Ngagong Tsunde, a respected monk from nearby Ganjia, Labrang belongs to the Gelugpa sect—the “Yellow Hat” lineage. At its height, it was home to over 4,000 monks. Even today, more than 3,000 monks live, study, and pray here. Many come from Gansu, Qinghai, Tibet, and even Inner Mongolia.
I arrived early, eager for the monastery’s guided tour, which is led by monks fluent in English. These tours run daily around 10:15 a.m. and 3:15 p.m.—and trust me, it’s the best way to understand this sacred space. It’s also the only way to access certain halls and temples.
Our first stop was the Institute of Medicine, one of six traditional colleges at Labrang. This one teaches Tibetan medicine and is open to all visitors, locals and travelers alike. Though we couldn’t take photos inside, the quiet wisdom of the courtyard left a deep impression on me.
Next, we visited Shou’an Temple, home to towering Buddha statues and vibrant thangka paintings. I stood beneath a Qing Dynasty plaque and felt centuries of devotion echo around me. Only two temples—Shou’an and Shou’xi—are open to the public.
We then moved to the Labrang Monastery Relic Museum, where yak butter sculptures are preserved like fine art. The scent is intense—rich, earthy, even overwhelming—but the detail is astonishing. And here, unlike elsewhere, we were allowed to take photos.
The final stops were breathtaking. First, the Maitreya Temple, a five-story marvel with golden roof tiles and intricate wooden carvings. Then we stepped into the Grand Sutra Hall, the largest prayer hall in Labrang. It can hold 4,000 monks, and though we only glimpsed it from the outside, we could hear their chanting from within.
In the afternoon, I joined local pilgrims on the 3-kilometer kora path, circling the monastery clockwise. The path winds past rows of golden prayer wheels, white stupas, and monks’ dwellings. It felt peaceful. Grounding. And entirely unforgettable.
4. Scenic Drive: Xiahe to Langmusi (230 km)
On an early August morning, we set off from Xiahe toward Langmusi (郎木寺)—a peaceful Tibetan town near the Sichuan border.
The journey was around 230 kilometers and took us about four hours, including two quick restroom stops at gas stations.
We followed the National Highway through Hezuo City (合作市) and Luqu County (碌曲县). Along the way, alpine meadows, roaming yaks, and white-walled Tibetan homes painted a stunning picture.
Every turn brought a new view—like a watercolor painting come to life. For anyone planning a road trip in this region, this part of your Xiahe travel guide is pure joy behind the wheel.
First Stretch: Xiahe to Hezuo (63km of Rising Views)
The first 30 kilometers of the trip from Xiahe to Wang Ge’er Tang (王格尔塘) are quite special. This is the only section not on the National Highway. Instead, we followed a scenic local provincial road S 312 that forks off from Highway and winds gently along the Daxia River.
Mountains rose on both sides, wrapping the narrow valley in quiet beauty. We passed small Tibetan homes and fields scattered with wildflowers.
With the river on one side and the hills on the other, it felt like a secret back road—one that only locals and lucky travelers ever get to see.
After passing the Wang Ge’er Tang Toll Gate (王格尔塘收费站), we officially joined National Highway again.
This 32-kilometer stretch felt like a quiet transition zone—where the loess plateau slowly gives way to the Tibetan Plateau.
The Tao River, flowing from Luqu County, kept us company on our left. Its water shimmered under the soft morning light.
Meanwhile, the road began to climb. Curve by curve, we could feel our SUV steadily gaining altitude. The higher we went, the more the air seemed to thin—and the scenery opened wide.
We were leaving Xiahe County behind, but the beauty wasn’t going anywhere. It was only changing—becoming wilder and grander with every passing kilometer.
Third Stretch: From Hezuo to Luqu – Into the Heart of the Plateau (79 km)
Soon, we were driving through Hezuo City (合作市)—the capital of Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.
This busy town sits at the edge of the vast Tibetan-Qinghai Plateau. It lies right where Gansu, Sichuan, and Qinghai meet.
From Xiahe, it’s only about 62 kilometers west, but the altitude here already pushes above 3,000 meters.
Next, we passed the towering Milarepa Buddha Pavilion, glowing against the sky.
The city gave way to open meadows, scattered with wildflowers and alpine grass.White clouds floated above snow-tipped peaks.
Meanwhile, a herd of yaks casually wandered across the highway. It felt surreal—this stretch of road was both humbling and incredibly alive.
We were deep in Tibetan country now, and the landscape made sure we knew it.
Fourth Stretch: From Luqu to Langmusi – Skies, Lakes, and Tibetan Silence (90 km)
After leaving Hezuo City(合作市), we entered Luqu County (碌曲县)—a quiet and spacious land where the Tibetan Plateau stretches wide.
Over 84% of Luqu’s 30,000 residents are Tibetan. The county itself feels like open sky, highland wind, and grazing yaks.
We were now 90 kilometers from Langmusi (郎木寺) and at this point, our Xiahe road trip had fully transformed—from monastery towns to vast wilderness.
Next, we passed Gahai Lake (尕海), shimmering under the midday sun. At 3,480 meters above sea level, it’s the largest freshwater lake in Gannan.
Surrounded by soft mountains, Gahai (尕海) is fed by underground springs and mountain streams. It’s also home to black-necked cranes, swans, and dozens of migratory birds. A true hidden gem.
Meanwhile, the road kept rising. Around each bend, the scenery felt untouched and sacred.
Langmusi, though still ahead, already felt close. The light shifted, the sky deepened, and a calm silence filled the car. We were no longer just travelers—we were somewhere timeless.
This part of the Xiahe travel guide, from Luqu to Langmusi, was more than just a road. It was a quiet passage into another world.
Final Stretch: Langmusi to the Edge of Ruoergai Grassland (30 km of Quiet Wonder)
Since Langmusi (郎木寺) lies right on the edge of the Ruoergai Grassland (若尔盖草原), we decided to keep going—just 30 more kilometers south and we had to enter the Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan Province to see Ruoergai Grassland .
Instead of exploring Langmusi first, we drove straight into open skies and wide, wild meadows.
Ruoergai Grassland(若尔盖草原), straddling Sichuan and Gansu, sits between 3,000 and 3,600 meters above sea level. It’s one of China’s largest alpine wetlands and the fourth biggest grassland in the country.
We didn’t venture deep into the heart of it this time—just touched the northern edge. Still, it took my breath away.
Langmusi itself felt like a quiet border town, with Amdo Tibetans, Hui, and Han Chinese living in harmony. We passed through gently.
Compared to greener grasslands like Narat or Mulan Weichang, Ruoergai’s beauty lies in its wildflowers.
Pinks, purples, and yellows dotted the landscape like scattered gems. I couldn’t name most of them, but they made me smile.
July to early September is peak bloom. We arrived just in time.
Although this wasn’t technically part of Xiahe, it felt like a natural continuation of our Xiahe journey—remote, peaceful, and a little bit magical.
5. Langmusi: A Borderland Town Where Fairies and Monks Meet
After wandering the edge of the Ruoergai Grassland, we returned to Langmusi (郎木寺)—one of the most memorable stops on our long journey through Gannan.
It was time for lunch. We headed to the Chinese restaurant at Langmusi Binguan (Langmusi Hotel)—the town’s best hotel, located right between the Gansu and Sichuan sides. The hotel had a peaceful courtyard and a view of the surrounding hills.
After our meal, I stepped outside and noticed three monks sitting quietly by the gate. I asked if I could take a photo with them. They smiled and nodded. That photo—me with three monks in the sunlight—is now one of my favorite memories of the day.
Langmusi Town (郎木寺镇) may be small, but it’s full of charm. The name means “Langmu Temple” in Chinese, but in Tibetan, “Langmu” means “fairy”. According to local legend, a fairy once appeared in a nearby cave.
With a population of just over 3,000, Langmusi is home to Tibetans, Hui Muslims, and Han Chinese. A stream called the White Dragon River cuts through the town. North of the river is Gansu Province; south of it is Sichuan.
The main street is lively—lined with small shops, restaurants, and guesthouses. Beyond the bustle, the town is wrapped in hills, alpine forests, and snow-dusted peaks.
Langmusi has two Tibetan monasteries and one mosque:
- Sertri Gompa (on the northern hill, Gansu side)
- Kirti Gompa (on the southern hill, Sichuan side)
- Hui Mosque (near Kirti Temple’s entrance)
For anyone following this Xiahe travel guide, Langmusi offers a perfect blend of spiritual depth, natural beauty, and cultural harmony—all in one quiet border town.
6. A Spiritual Climb: Visiting Kirti Gompa in Langmusi Town
I stepped outside Langmusi Hotel and paused. To my right was the main street—busy with restaurants, shops, and wandering tourists.
To my left, a bumpy path led uphill toward Kirti Gompa (格尔底寺), the monastery perched on the southern hill—on the Sichuan side of town.
Just across from the hotel sat a tiny, almost hidden ticket office. Its weathered walls didn’t look official at all. A woman inside shouted toward passing tourists, trying to get them to stop. We nearly missed it ourselves.
We decided to skip Sertri Gompa (赛赤寺)—the temple on the Gansu side—since our time in Langmusi was limited. So first, we climbed to Kirti Gompa, then planned to explore the mosque and stroll the town.
On the way up, a row of golden prayer wheels spun quietly in the breeze. Above us, locals stood on the grassy hill, framed by white clouds and wild meadows.
This scene reminded me of the debating monks at Sera Monastery in Lhasa. Here too, monks in crimson robes gathered outside the main hall, passionately debating with dramatic claps and hand gestures.
Inside, we found others deep in discussion on the floor. Becoming a monk clearly isn’t easy—it takes discipline, thought, and constant learning.
There are many small temples scattered across Kirti’s compound. From one high point, I could clearly see Sertri Gompa across the valley on the Gansu side. What a view—Langmusi town, nestled like a secret between two green mountains.
Below the monastery, the White Dragon River flows quietly past Tibetan homes and winds down to the main street. I followed the river back toward town.
At the corner, I visited Langmusi’s only mosque, built in 1943 by Hui and Dongxiang traders.
The dusty street was lined with cozy inns and cafés. I popped into Amdo Coffee, then finished my walk with a slice of apple pie at Leisha’s Restaurant—a perfect end to my visit.
7. Essential Travel Tips for Xiahe and Gannan
Before you pack your bags, here are a few things I wish I knew before traveling through Xiahe and the Gannan region.
🌤️ Weather & What to Wear
They say Gannan has four seasons in a day—and it’s true! Dress in layers like an onion. Mornings are chilly, afternoons warm, and sudden rain is common. Bring a lightweight raincoat or umbrella—just in case.
🏔️ Altitude Matters
Xiahe sits around 3,000 meters. While not as high as Tibet, altitude sickness can still hit. Take it slow on day one. Avoid alcohol, stay warm, and don’t overdo it. Carry glucose or oxygen if you’re prone to reactions.
🙏 Culture & Respect
Temples are sacred. Speak softly, walk respectfully. Always remove your hat inside shrines and never point at Buddha statues—gesture with an open palm. No photos inside temples. No drone flying near monasteries.
🚗 Transport & Routes
Public transport is limited. I recommend hiring a car or joining a small group tour. Keep daily driving to 3–4 hours for a relaxed pace. Xiahe, Langmusi, and Ruoergai make a perfect 5–7 day loop.
🛏️ Accommodation & Food
Book early during July, August, and holidays. Most hotels are simple but comfortable. If Tibetan food isn’t your thing, don’t worry—there are plenty of Sichuan restaurants too.
📸 Best Photo Spots
Sangke Grassland, Labrang Monastery’s prayer corridor, Langmusi at sunrise, and Gahai Lake’s reflection—don’t miss them. Bright solids like red, yellow, or white look stunning in photos!
💡 Bonus Tips
Carry some cash—small shops and toilets may not accept digital payment. Always take your trash with you. And don’t forget sunscreen—the sun here is no joke!
Your Xiahe travel guide is now complete. Slow down, breathe deeply, and let the plateau work its magic.
🌟Further Reading
Lanzhou Travel Guide: Map, Highlights and Travel Tips
How to Get to Maijishan Grottoes from Xi’an: Highlights & Tips
